The story of the day I got shot on Mount Ararat after taking photos of the picturesque Isak Pasha Palace, Turkey, by photographer Paul E Williams.
On My Way To The Shoot Out
Travelling on my own in remote parts of Europe, the Near East and North Africa has never really concerned me. Generally I have found people in all the places I have visited to be friendly and have never felt any aggression from anyone. Well that was true until the day I got shot at.
See More Photos From the Towering Delusion Series
2018 in Eastern Anatolia
On my 2018 trip to Turkey I wanted to revisit the Kurdish region in Eastern Anatolia Turkey. It is a remote wild Kurdish region adjoining Iran, Iraq and Armenia. There had been a heavy army crack down in the region in recent years following uprisings by the Kurdish liberation army, the Pkk. I was aware that the PKK had also kidnapped tourists in recent years but knew that the military would not let me enter danger areas, or so I thought .
Not having checked the latest situation in advance I headed off to visit the wonderful Ishak Pasha Palace. In sight of Mount Ararat, on the top of which Noah’s fabled arc landed as the floods receded, Ishak Pasha Palace is a fine example of Ottoman architecture. Having arrived at sun up and being the first to enter the Palace ruins to photograph it, I had finished at about 10 o’clock. As I wanted to return for an evening shoot I decided to take a closer look at Mount Ararat.
Off Road In Enemy Territory
I passed through a military road block on the main road to Ararat and turned off onto a dirt road and headed towards the mountain. I passed an armoured car with it doors open and no sights of any solders so I followed the track into low arid dusty hills. After 10 miles or so I came across a shanty village with poor houses spread out along either side of the dirt road. As I was about to leave the village I was forced to stop as the track had a very deep trench dug across it so, watched by a bemused local, I turned the Defender and headed back.
As it was still mid morning I thought I would follow a side track towards Mount Ararat to see if I could get a better vantage pint. Just after I turned onto the track I heard two loud bangs and thought I had blown a tyre. Having got out of the Defender I was dismayed to see a line of soldiers in full military dress and fully armed walking in line across the dusty terrain towards me. My initial thought was please be Turkish solders and not PKK and I waited calmly to see what would happen.
Interrogation Through Google
As the soldiers came close to the Defender they surrounded it and me. Taking up defensive kneeling positions they faced outwards with their guns on their shoulders ready to fire. One soldier climbed a nearby low hill as a lookout whilst three other soldiers approached me. As we had no way of communicating one young soldier took out his iPone and started interrogating me through Google translate. It was a very bizarre situation indeed.
Luckily for me they were Turkish soldiers on foot patrol and I had driven into an area where the PKK was still operating. I think the empty armoured car was meant to stop me but the soldiers were probably having a chai break. One of the foot solders had fired 2 shots to stop me going any further and they had surrounded me for my own protection.
The Armoured Cars Arrive
Soon I heard a rumble of vehicles and we were joined by 2 very impressive armoured cars. Thanks to Google I chatted to the solders whilst my passport was check and the Army HQ confirmed I was not wanted in connection with gun running to the PKK. After I had supplied the thirsty soldiers with water , they had evidently run quite away on a very hot day to stop me, the armoured cars escorted out of the area which was great fun.
With a final wave we parted company and I went on my merry way without any photos to document the adventure. One thing I learnt on my travels is you don’t photograph the military unless you want real trouble and, at best, a confiscated camera. I have always loved the Turkish people and, even though I know their army has committed atrocities against the Kurds, I can only say that my brush with their military was considerate and their concern for my safety genuine. So finally that only leaves me to thank them for shooting at me in friendship and not in anger and saving me from who know what!!
